14 July

Back to Shanghai, again on a new high speed train (rocketed into Shanghai at approximately 130 miles per hour).

It was very difficult to find an honest cab back to the hotel but did find a meter cab with a driver willing to use the meter instead of a grossly inflated flat price.

Returned to the Galaxy Hotel, with now typical difficulty checked in: issues about number of beds (already arranged), charges (ditto), breakfasts (two days, two free breakfasts for three people, not one). But eventually was checked in, eventually got to room. Relaxed just a little bit then hit the street.

Afternoon trek was to be from the Marriott on the opposite end of the Nanjing Road shopping area from where we had been brought by the tour, thence on to and to end at the Ohel Rachel synagogue (read about it here and here and here).

However, the cabbie didn't quite make it; perhaps he simply didn't really know where he was going but a couple of blocks from the Sofitel Hotel, where the tour had left us, he invited us out of the cab. The Sofitel was a couple of blocks in the opposite direction from where we were headed but we headed it to anyway as it was a landmark, a place with which I was somewhat familiar. So we went there and then proceeded along Nanjing Road as well as a few side streets (having learned our lesson in Zhenjiang: main streets were generally retail, side streets had the bargains and the interesting stuff).

First stop after very little walking: yet another McDonald's. Even at 3:00, it was awfully -- literally -- crowded. A worker though found a 4 person table with one chuncky guy seated there; she got him to move in and let us join him, so to speak.

Shayna and I actually shopped in a department store for cheap art supplies: pens, pads and mechanical erasers.

We then continued with what could only be described as a shlep. A German guy asked us to take his picture; Shayna did it.

After much walking, aided by my now legendary navigation abilities (helped by, like, knowing Shanghai, like the back of my hand, even better that I know Chengdu), we arrived at the synagogue.

To find that it was within a small gated residential community. And the guard wasn't going to let us in.

So we turned around and crossed the street to hail a cab.

A native who apparently belonged within the community obviously saw us come from the gate. He understood enough English to understand that we wanted in to see the synagogue and got us in. We walked around and took photos. The rear of the building in now almost completely covered with Ivy. It is now owned by the city: Shanghai is responsible for it but clearly is taking minimal responsibility for it.

Shayna then tried the doors and one was unlocked.

We entered, after a young woman walking around the area came over and entered with us; she seemed to have some vague responsibility.

The building is simple; little more than chapel, upstairs balconies, but essentially stripped; empty pulpit, for example. Presently, there is an exhibit. The young woman said that services are held occasionally.

After Donna chatted with her for a long time and we left to return to the Galaxy.

Where we made plans with my cousin Sandi for a late dinner at a trendy, western restaurant sort of near both of us, Manifesto.

However, first we had to allow the hotel plumber to do some work in the bathroom, defering desperately needed showers....

And when we left for the restaurant, who came out of the room across the narrow hall but nearly all of the tween from our part of the tour. And the two missing ones were also still at the hotel but elsewhere. It was like an immediate reunion! Just two days after tour's end!

One of the first tings we did, though, was to call my mother with birthday greetings: Donna sang happy birthday in Chinese, then Sandi, Shayna and I spoke to her. It was awesome to be able to call half way around the world so easily....

Food was good (so good Shayna ate an entire Caesar!), vodka was desperately needed, and met the owner, a young Polish man now making his fortune (or not) in this boom town.

A lovely late night after a great day in this awesome, amazing city....